Monday, February 3, 2014
Turns out there are a few secrets. Some are more important than others, so you can weigh the extra yumminess against your own personal time constraints and decide which ones you want to incorporate, but I promise if you make hummus using all the secrets, you're never going to want to buy hummus again. You'll be asked to bring Your Amazing Hummus to every party from here on out.
1. Start with dry beans. If you need hummus before tomorrow, you're going to have to go with canned, and yes, your hummus will still be very, very good if you use all the other secrets. But if you have time, soaking and cooking your own beans will help enhance the texture and add a depth of flavor that even the highest-quality canned beans just can't match.
2. Add a little baking soda to the soaking water. The beans soak up just enough of the baking soda to make their texture creamier, but not enough to change the taste of the final product.
3. Remove the skins. I know, I know. Very few of us are delighted at the thought of spending twenty minutes removing the skins from a pound of chickpeas, but this is one of the more important secrets. You could also use a food mill or mash the beans through a fine sieve to remove the skins, but to me the extra steps of setting up and cleaning the food mill seem like more work than simply plopping down in front of the TV with a bowl of beans in my lap for a few minutes, so I just do it by hand. Now, that said, if you decide to skip this step, you'll still end of with very good hummus if you follow all the other steps. It just won't be mindblowing hummus.
4. Chill the beans before pureeing. Hot or warm or even room temperature beans won't emulsify as well as cold beans and instead can become gummy. Additionally, when the beans are pureed warm, its impossible to tell whether more water or oil is needed to get to the puree to the desired consistency. What seems like the perfect consistency when warm or room temperature may thicken to a cracker-breaking stiffness in the fridge. Chill a cup or so of the cooking water, too, while you're at it. Even if you're using canned beans, chill them before you use them.
5. Roast the garlic. Raw garlic is really hard to get perfectly smooth in a food processor, even after you've minced it fine, and I think the roasted garlic flavor is an improvement in hummus. However, if you prefer the flavor of raw garlic, you can mash it with a mortar and pestle or put it through a garlic press. To roast just a clove or three, lay them on a cupped square of sprayed tin foil, add a teaspoon of olive oil, wrap tightly, and roast at 300 for an hour until the cloves are completely softened.
6. Emulsify the lemon, tahini, oil and garlic together first. Along with removing the skins, this is the most important secret to smooth, creamy, silky hummus. No matter how many other recipes direct you to do so, you can't simply throw all the ingredients into the food processor together and expect them to emulsify. I suspect the reasons there are so many recipes out there calling for the dump-and-puree method (and so many home cooks wondering why they can't get their hummus as smooth and creamy as Mrs. Hoozit's down the road) is because whenever someone asks Mrs. Hoozit for her recipe, she simply (whether by oversight or design) hands over the list of ingredients and doesn't get into the techniques.
A final word about ingredients: This won't affect the texture, but it will affect the taste. The olive oil, tahini, and lemon juice are what give hummus most of its flavor, so when possible it's worth it to choose high-quality ingredients.
Okay, so the recipe:
Smooth, Creamy, Silky Hummus
1 pound dried chickpeas (garbanzo beans)
1 t baking soda
1 clove garlic, roasted (or more to taste)
1/4 c tahini or roasted tahini (or more to taste)
3 T extra-virgin olive oil
2 T fresh lemon juice (approximately the juice from 1 large lemon)
salt to taste
In a large covered saucepan place beans and baking soda and add cold water to cover by at least 2 inches Allow to soak 12 hours or overnight, adding water if necessary to keep beans covered.
Drain beans and rinse; cover with fresh water by at least an inch. Bring to a boil, reduce to simmer, and simmer covered over lowest heat for 1 - 2 hours. Drain, reserving one cup of cooking water. When cool enough to handle, remove the skins by pinching each bean gently to slip the skin off. Chill beans and reserved cooking water.
In the bowl of a food processor place tahini, olive oil, and lemon juice, and puree several minutes, stopping to scrape down sides as needed, until the mixture looks smooth and emulsified. Add garlic and process until smooth. Add 1 - 3 T of chilled cooking water, 1 T at a time, processing 2-3 minutes after each addition, until you have a silky consistency. Add chilled beans (I like to reserve a few for garnish) and 2 T cooking water and process 5 - 10 minutes, stopping to scrape down sides as needed and adding additional cooking water 1 T at a time if necessary to produce a smooth texture. When the mixture looks very, very smooth, stop and check for desired thickness. Add additional cooking water, 1 T at a time, until the desired thickness has been reached. (You're looking for a dense, smooth texture that is not so stiff it will break a cracker dipped into it and not so thin it will slide off it.) Taste for seasoning and add salt if necessary, processing for a few seconds to incorporate. Refrigerate if not serving immediately. To serve, swirl on a plate with the back of a spoon, drizzle with olive oil, garnish with reserved beans, and serve with crackers, pita chips or fresh pita, or raw vegetables for dipping.
Monday, July 15, 2013
I've been in a civil disagreement with another blogger (gardening/recipes blogger Leaf+Grain) over the past week or so about prices at the farmers' market. She's experiencing sticker shock, and I understand.
Her argument is that prices at the farmers' market are too high for the average American to afford.
My counterargument is that "afford" is a relative term, and that if it's truly not sustainable to produce food the way we've been producing it over the past few decades -- that is, lots of soy- and corn-based processed foods, meat from feedlots, produce from large monocultures -- is unsustainable, then we don't have much choice but to recalculate what portion of our food budget needs to go to food.
We Americans have experienced cheaper and cheaper food prices over the past hundred years. Industrial food is cheap food. Our great-grandparents put a quarter of their income toward food -- and that was in a time when very few families ate in restaurants more than a few times a year. Today the average American eats five meals a week in a restaurant, and still we spend only 9% of our household budgets on food. This leaves us a lot of money to spend on nonessentials, and we've gotten used to that. We expect it. When food isn't cheap, it feels overpriced.
Unfortunately she shut down the comments on her blog post, calling me a food elitist. I don't think I'm an elitist. I think I'm a realist. If cheap food is truly unsustainable -- that is, if it's impossible to continue producing food this cheaply forever -- then eventually the era of cheap food will end. If we haven't prepared for it, we'll be in much worse shape than if we had. And I believe part of preparing for it is educating ourselves on the true cost of producing our food.
Here's the blog post. I'd be interested in hearing any comments, either privately or publicly.
Posted by Valerie Taylor at 4:11 PM
Wednesday, November 14, 2012
21c Museum Hotels and Executive Chef Michael Paley
Open Metropole Restaurant in Cincinnati
Award-winning Hospitality Group and Acclaimed Chef Celebrate the City’s European Roots and Local Agriculture with Fireplace-Focused Restaurant
CINCINNATI, OH (November 13, 2012) – 21c Museum Hotels, the award-winning boutique hotel, contemporary art museum and restaurant group, is pleased to announce the opening of Metropole, located at 21c Museum Hotel Cincinnati, at 609 Walnut Street in Cincinnati, Ohio (513.578.6660; www.metropoleonwalnut.com); the hotel is scheduled to open in the coming weeks. Under the direction of executive chef Michael Paley, previously of Proof on Main in Louisville, KY, Metropole’s menu revolves around a custom-built wood-burning fireplace, emphasizing the city’s European roots and celebrating the region’s local farming and sustainable agriculture.
Paley, also executive chef and a partner in Louisville’s Garage Bar, which features pizza from a wood-fired oven, country ham and fresh oysters, was inspired to create a menu cooked almost entirely by wood-fired heat.
“I became interested in fireplace cooking after working with the wood-fired oven at Garage Bar, and really like the challenge of bringing this ancient cooking method into a modern restaurant kitchen,” says Paley. “Our menu at Metropole reflects Cincinnati’s robust, European-rooted culinary heritage. I am thrilled to have the opportunity to work with the 21c team on another project in a culturally rich city like Cincinnati.”
Building on the foundation he learned at Garage Bar, Paley’s menu focuses on dishes cooked in a custom, eight-foot-wide, wood-burning fireplace that he developed. Paley worked with Craig Kaviar, a Kentucky-based blacksmith and artist, to create cast-iron cranes that are bolted into the fireplace and that swing over the wood-burning fire, allowing Paley to use a variety of unique fireplace cooking techniques. Showcasing Ohio’s producers and farmers, Paley has developed a menu of string-roasted meats, ash-cooked vegetables, and house-made charcuterie. The restaurant’s beverage menu favors American craft beers and bourbon.
Metropole is open daily for dinner with an accessible menu that allows guests to build a meal from various categories. House-made charcuterie, vegetables, salads and small plates are ideal dishes for sharing, including Leek and Celeriac Soup with hearth-baked oysters, bacon, and crème fraîche; Foie Gras topped with toasted pretzel breadcrumbs and served with house-made mustard and sweet and sour onions; Vinegar-Poached Beets, charred in the fireplace and served with bitter greens, fresh goat cheese, farm radishes, and garlic chips; Ash-Baked Pumpkin, served with fresh fall greens, pumpkin seeds, and goat cheese; and an Herb Tea Poached Egg, accompanied by cannellini bean gratin and sautéed winter greens.
The savory portion of the menu is rounded out with a selection of entrees, which features meat and fish dishes that are braised in cast-iron pots hanging over the wood fireplace, roasted on open spits, and sautéed on flat-top grills set over wood embers. The Shelton Farm Pork Confit is complemented by roasted leeks, mustard broth, and chestnut honey; Grilled Swordfish is plated alongside ash-roasted peppers and bulgur wheat; and String-Roasted Chicken is accompanied with dripping-pan vegetables and grilled lemon.
The dessert program concludes the menu and features specialties such as Espresso Pudding Cake with malt, rye, walnuts, and ashed cherry ice cream; Smoked Pear with pomegranate ice cream, brown butter madeleine, black tea and toasted oats; and Caramelized Citrus Caramel with angel food cake, crème sorbet and sea salt.
The beverage program, developed by food and beverage director Melanie Tapp, an alum of Proof on Main and Garage Bar, focuses heavily on a rotating selection of American craft beers on tap. Oskar Blues Beers, which are new to the Cincinnati market, are included on the menu alongside local draft favorite, Blank Slate American Session Ale. Bourbon and rye will be the main focuses at Metropole, paying homage to the original 21c Museum Hotel’s Kentucky roots. A variety of Kentucky’s finest bourbons and ryes will be highlighted on the menu, as well as local Ohio distillers such as Oyo Vodka and Whiskey and Watershed Vodka and Gin. A frequently changing list of specialty cocktails includes Don & Dirty made with Old Grand-Dad, chapa-roasted cranberry, orange, and raw sugar bitters; and The I.T. with OYO Honey Vanilla, jalapeño, lime and soda.
Metropole features a unique bread, coffee, and tea program, tapping into local artisans to offer fresh and ever-changing offerings. In addition to regular coffee service, a rotating menu of locally roasted coffees will be available in French Press to highlight the city’s roasters and micro-roasters, with the first offerings being Tazza Mia and Carabello Coffee. The restaurant’s loose-leaf tea program will feature teas from Kentucky’s leading tea producer, Elmwood Inn, offering guests the chance to taste a variety of the country’s finest teas. Metropole is sourcing all of its bread from Blue Oven Bakery, located in Williamsburg, Ohio. Committed to the use of local farm products and quality ingredients, Blue Oven Bakery makes all bread by hand to deliver an authentic, organic product that will continuously rotate at the restaurant.
Designed by Deborah Berke & Partners Architects, Metropole is housed in the 21c Museum Hotel Cincinnati, formerly the Metropole Hotel, a 100-year-old historic landmark in downtown Cincinnati. Building on its mission of engaging the public with contemporary art and supporting the revitalization of downtown Cincinnati, the new 21c Museum Hotel restores the architectural and historical landmark into a beautiful public space. The open kitchen and wood-burning fireplace create the focal point of Metropole’s warm 90-seat dining room, 14-seat bar, an intimate lounge, and 12-person private dining room, creating an inviting environment for locals, visitors and hotel guests alike. Many of the original elements of the space were preserved including the original mosaic tile floors, arched windows and historic molding and ceiling plaster. Natural tones of cream, brown and eggplant are used throughout the space, and incorporated into decorative accents such as textured, leather banquettes, a copper bar highlighted by a hanging antique mirror, and glazed tiles behind the bar. The space will also feature rotating, curated exhibitions of contemporary art. The restaurant’s opening exhibition, OFF SHOOT: Serial Explorations, presents a wide-ranging investigation of identity, history and the barely perceptible space between fantasy and reality. The exhibition will feature works from artists Sanford Biggers, Loretta Lux, Kay Ruane and Annie Kevans as well as local artist Jay Bolotin and Louisville-based photographer Sarah Lyon.
Through his unique passion for sustainable agriculture and local farming, Paley has created his own, exciting cuisine – one defined by a seamless integration of simple ingredients to create boundary-pushing dishes. With culinary tenures working under noteworthy chefs and operators, such as Daniel Boulud and Drew Nieporent, Paley was able to gain extensive classical training before becoming an executive chef. In 2005, Chef Paley was tapped to open Proof on Main in the 21c Museum Hotel in Louisville, KY, and remained executive chef there until moving to Cincinnati to take the reins at Metropole. At Proof on Main, Paley’s flavor-focused cooking inspired by the culinary traditions of Italy and the American South inspired an accessible and exciting menu that paid homage to the bounty of the Ohio River Valley.
Metropole is open daily for dinner, with lunch and breakfast service to follow. The restaurant is located in the 21c Museum Hotel, at 609 Walnut Street in Cincinnati, Ohio. Reservations are recommended and can be made by calling (513.578.6660). For more information, please visit www.metropoleonwalnut.com or www.facebook.com/metropoleonwalnut.
Posted by Valerie Taylor at 5:38 PM
Thursday, November 8, 2012
Posted by Valerie Taylor at 8:04 AM
Wednesday, November 7, 2012
Saturday, November 17th: 1pm - 3pm
Taught by Jamie Stoneham
What do Delicata, Kabocha, Calabaza, Acorn, Spaghetti, and Hubbard all have in common?
They are all winter squash.
Explore the different tastes and textures of winter squash as you also learn how to store and buy these tasty delicacies. Then grab your aprons for a unique hands-on cooking experience in Gorman Farm's 1835-era farm house utilizing one type of those tasty squashes.
Posted by Valerie Taylor at 6:27 PM
Sunday, November 4, 2012
Friday, November 2, 2012
Saturday, October 27, 2012
amazing to me that some people actually prefer canned cranberry sauce to homemade. I suspect much of the claimed preference for
it is irony from the same folks who order PBR in a craft brewery,
but it’s not all that: my own sister-in-law truly wants a log of the canned stuff on the Thanksgiving table. Once a dish gets on that table,
it becomes part of the family tradition. Whether or not anyone likes it or even actually eats it, it’s just got to be on that table until the end of time. Woe be unto the host who decides to stop making great-grandma's black-cherry-jello-with-canned-black-cherries-in-it just because great-grandma was the only one who ate it and she's been dead fifteen years and now it just sits there looking sad and gets thrown into the compost heap every Sunday-after-Thanksgiving. But I'm not bitter.
You can't change tradition, but you can add new ones: our Thanksgiving table contains BOTH my own homemade sauce and the canned stuff my mother-in-law probably switched to sometime in the 1950s.
So let’s see what we can do about switching them back: let’s gift them homemade cranberry sauce. If you give it to them as a beautifully-presented handmade gift, they’ll probably at least try it, right?
So: easiness? How easy is this: You put cranberries in a pot with sugar and some spices, bring it to a boil, lower to a simmer, and let it cook ten minutes, stirring occasionally. Yes, that’s the entire process.
makes ~10 pints
6 pounds cranberries (if you can't find bulk berries, 8 12-oz bags equals 6 pounds.)
4 cups orange juice
8 cups sugar
1/2 t cinnamon
1/2 t allspice
1/2 t cardamom
1/2 t nutmeg
Place all ingredients into a large pot, bring to a boil, lower to simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the cranberries pop -- about ten minutes.
What we’re going to do takes it one step further: we’re going to, er, can the sauce. Go ahead, laugh, but OUR sauce isn’t going to slither out of the canning jar in a gelatinous sliceable mass. And it isn’t going to contain high fructose corn syrup, either.
- Fill your canning kettle with 7" of water, place canning rack into the kettle, and bring to a boil on your highest-heat burner turned on high. Leave it on the boil.
- Sanitize 10 pint jars (I usually just run them through the dishwasher.)
- Keep the jars hot by pouring a little water into each, setting them into a 13x9 pan with an inch of water in it, and sticking the whole thing into a warm (170 - 200 degree) oven.
- Working with one jar at a time, pour water out of jar, then ladle the hot cranberry sauce into the jar, pushing cranberries down gently into the liquid so they aren't sticking up and adding extra liquid if necessary to cover them. Leave 1/2" of space between the top of the liquid and the rim of the jar. A canning funnel (a funnel with a wide bottom) is very helpful to prevent spillage.
- Wipe the rim with a damp cloth, place a lid on it, and screw on the ring just until you feel resistance. You don't want the rings on tight -- they're only there to keep the lids in place while the batch processes, and tightening them can prevent a seal from forming.
- As you fill the jars, set them into the kettle on the rack. You'll need a pair of tongs for this; canning tongs are extremely helpful in grasping the jars securely.
- Repeat until you've filled the kettle. Cover, and when the pot returns to a boil, start timing. After five minutes at the boil, remove the jars and allow to cool on a cookie rack. You should hear the lids pop as the seals form, and when you look at the lids they'll appear very slightly pushed-in. Any jar that doesn't form a seal should be refrigerated and used within a few weeks.
- Allow to cool 24 hours before removing the rings, wiping the jars and lids clean with a damp cloth, and labeling.
Monday, September 17, 2012
This is my new favorite chicken salad recipe. The vinegary pickled vegetables provide a counterpoint to the typical mayo-heavy chicken salad.